Let's keep going!
Updated: 2 days ago
After sailing more than 8,000 nautical miles in French Polynesia, it’s time to move on.
It’s been a long time since the last newsletter. That doesn’t mean, however, that nothing has happened in the meantime. For a long time here in Polynesia, we didn’t hear anything about the coronavirus, but then last August the numbers skyrocketed here as well. With an incidence rate of 2,800, Polynesia was even among the highest in the world for a time. So, here in Moorea, we went into lockdown—initially for two weeks, but it ended up lasting four. Luckily, our buddy boat, the Seatramp, had docked next to us, and we had a great time together. We also made progress on a few boat projects. With a special permit, we were able to pick up and install our new solar panels in Papeete, Tahiti, and we helped Mario from the Seatramp replace the cylinder head gasket on the engine. Of course, we celebrated my birthday in style, and looking back, the lockdown period flew by almost too quickly for us.
For the cyclone season, which runs from November through April here, we headed back to the Tuamotus, where we had a great time enjoying beautiful, windless days under blue skies. We spent a lot of time in the water and did a lot of fishing. Thanks to Angel Andi, our catch increased, and we were able to eat fish for several days. For the second time on my trip, we were even lucky enough to catch an octopus, which we were able to prepare until it was melt-in-your-mouth tender with the help of advice from the locals. What a treat.
Just in time for Christmas, we arrived in Gambier for the second time. As some of you may remember, that’s where we arrived over two years ago after our 28-day Pacific crossing. It is and always will be a special place. The sailing community is very close-knit, thanks to the Sunday BBQ hosted by a local family. Up to 17 boats gather there to celebrate birthdays and much more.
We rang in the New Year with a bonfire on a secluded little island. Together with two French boats, we had a truly wonderful evening. It’s not common to come into contact with French boats, as they prefer to keep to themselves. However, we were able to build a special bond with the crews of the two boats, Mamarossa and Eclipse, who are sailing around the world with their children. Together with Mamarossa, we were even able to rescue a beached whale in Tahanea. You can see pictures of that here.
We absolutely loved Gambier again, and our first impression was confirmed. We got to know the locals, were given vegetables and fruit as gifts, went on hikes, and explored the underwater world. After about six weeks in this unique archipelago, we decided to sail once more to the Marquesas, 800 nautical miles away. After a wonderful five-day crossing, we arrived in Fatu Hiva. For the first time ever, we achieved a daily average (etmal) of 170 miles—that is, 7 knots per hour over a 24-hour period.
In the Marquesas, we often went on hikes, enjoyed nature, had barbecues on the beach, or simply savored life. On the way back to the Tuamotu Islands, we landed the biggest fish since the start of my journey—a 1.5-meter yellowfin tuna. What a beautiful creature—and actually much too big for us. Normally, we only catch what we can eat ourselves. But this time, we were able to share the catch with other sailors and locals, who were absolutely thrilled to receive it. Unfortunately, the oceans are being fished empty more and more.
After more than 750 days in Polynesia, it’s finally time to move on. I’ve had a wonderful time here, filled with unforgettable moments and experiences. Plus, my French is getting better and better...
New Zealand is reopening its maritime borders in July 2022. This means we’ve secured a safe harbor for the upcoming cyclone season, and the Yum Yum’s journey can finally continue.
We’re now spending our last few days on Bora Bora and Maupiti; we’ve stocked up on provisions and prepared the Yum Yum for the approximately 1,700-nautical-mile crossing. Depending on the wind and weather, this will take about 14 days. As soon as a suitable weather window opens, we’ll set sail.
Comments